Just a small clarification for anyone who thought we were serious about the strict food regime of bread and water for the judges-we've been eating some wonderful meals. The joke was more about cupping competition director Silvio Leite and his stellar attention to detail and procedure. There are however some guidelines for diet when cupping. Things you want to avoid the night before and day of the cupping include onions, garlic, hot peppers, and alcohol. While those ingredients have been absent for the most part from our meals, the food has been delicious.
Brazil is well known for it's grilled meats due to the proliferation of churrascurias around the world. Rodizios are found in most US citie where can gorge yourself on things like picanha (a cut known as "rump cover", seasoned with rock salt and grilled to perfection.) But we've also had plenty of fruits and vegetables. Some of the salads have included different lettuces as well as watercress (agriao) which is particular to Minas Gerais. The ever present pao de queijo have been very popular, especially at breakfast (cafe de manha).
About Me
- Brazil Fair Trade Certified Cupping Competition
- Sumario no Portugues
TransFair USA is excited to announce the first ever Fair Trade Certified Cupping Competition and Auction. All ten Brazilian Fair Trade Certified Arabica producing cooperatives will be submitting samples to be judged in the competition. The goal of the event is to showcase high quality Fair Trade Certified coffee produced in Brazil and provide Fair Trade Certified licensees access to the best coffees at origin. Buyers will have the opportunity to sample, meet producers, and bid on the winning coffees through a closed auction. In addition, TransFair USA is organizing a four day excursion following the auction for those who wish to visit coffee producing cooperatives in Minas Gerais. The international jury will be grading coffees from October 20th to October 24th. We will hold a tasting, auction and awards ceremony in Belo Horizonte, Minas Gerais on Friday, October 24th. This event provides an opportunity to meet with producers and producer organizations, sample the award-winning coffees and place bids on your favorites.
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
Poço Fundo
After the cupping the panel of judges visited COOPFAM (Cooperativa dos Agricultores Familiares de Poço Fundo e Regiao, or just Poço Fundo) Founded in 1991, the co-op has grown to achieve many of its long term goals and recently completed a new dry mill in May of this year. Three years ago the co-op began exporting its own coffee which completed the journey to self-sufficiency in all matters of post-production.
COOPFAM General Manager Luiz Adauto and John Cossette of Royal Coffee discuss this year's crop in the co-ops new dry mill.
Inside the co-ops cupping room the judges talk with Luis about quality control. All of the farmer members' beans are cupped individually, allowing the co-op to sort and market the lots accordingly.
Luiz Adauto and Miguel Zamora, Coffee Category Manager for TransFair USA, discuss how individual farmer lots are cupped and scored.
The judges had the opportunity to cup a few of the co-ops coffees including a real stunner with honeycomb aromas and clean acidity grown by Sr. Luiz himself. We then piled into the van and headed out to visit a co-op member's farm. More on that later!
COOPFAM General Manager Luiz Adauto and John Cossette of Royal Coffee discuss this year's crop in the co-ops new dry mill.
Inside the co-ops cupping room the judges talk with Luis about quality control. All of the farmer members' beans are cupped individually, allowing the co-op to sort and market the lots accordingly.
Luiz Adauto and Miguel Zamora, Coffee Category Manager for TransFair USA, discuss how individual farmer lots are cupped and scored.
The judges had the opportunity to cup a few of the co-ops coffees including a real stunner with honeycomb aromas and clean acidity grown by Sr. Luiz himself. We then piled into the van and headed out to visit a co-op member's farm. More on that later!
A day of naturals
Tuesday here at the Center of Excellence saw the conclusion of round one for naturally processed coffees. Naturals, those allowed to dry whole with the beans still inside the cherry, can be problematic on the cupping table. "It's always difficult to cup natural coffees because you can always find a lot of variations from cup to cup and table to table" says Andrew Miller of Cafe Imports. Twenty-nine coffees in three flights were cupped on Tuesday and Andrew saw two coffees per set that were "outstanding." Most likely these six and four others will go on to the final round of judging on Thursday.
Andrew Miller in action.
Andrew Miller in action.
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
International Panel Biographies
While our judges finish cupping the third and final round of naturals, let's learn a little more about them.
Oscar Gonzales, Supply Manager, Sustainable Harvest, Lima, Peru
Oscar Gonzales began his career in coffee eleven years ago. He initially started working at national roasting companies, where he established strong relationships with key coffee companies and exporting cooperatives in Peru. Oscar then worked with coffee producing organizations for a private export company, where he gained experience in the area of production, logistics, and quality control.
Oscar has a great understanding of the demands of the specialty coffee industry in regards to quality and production practices. With Sustainable Harvest, Oscar works in supplier relations, helps link new coffee producers to the market, leads training seminars, and oversees cupping training to teach smallholder farmers the language of quality through taste. Recently, Oscar became a licensed Q Grader, a professional accreditation for coffee cuppers. He is the first Peruvian to earn this distinction.
Sustainable Harvest
Darrin Daniel, Allegro Coffee, Thornton, CO
Darrin Daniel is the green coffee buyer for the Colorado based, Allegro Coffee Company, a wholly owned subsidiary of Whole Foods Market. Beginning in 1985, Daniel’s has worked in specialty coffee as a trainer, roaster, barista, technician and coffee specialist. He has served as an international judge for Cup of Excellence in Brazil, El Salvador and Honduras, in addition to travelling to numerous coffee farms throughout Africa, Asia and Latin America since 2001. Daniel’s currently serves on the advisory board for Roast Magazine and is a member of the Roaster’s Guild, a branch of the SCAA dedicated to the craft of roasting. In 2008 he became a licensed Q grader by the Coffee Quality Institute and is also Star Cupper certified by the SCAA. In 1991 he received his BA from Naropa University in Literature and Writing with a minor in Anthropology and Religious Studies. Naropa University in Boulder Colorado comprises a four-year undergraduate college and graduate programs in the arts, education, environmental leadership, psychology and religious studies.
Allegro Coffee Company
David Hermann, Bean Machine (Roaster), The Roasterie, Kansas City MO
David has worked in the coffee industry since his college days at Saint Louis University. He enjoys the international flavors that specialy coffee brings to the Kansas City community. A member of the Roasters Guild, and an espresso aficionado, David never stops trying to learn more about our beautiful beans. In his free time he enjoys spending time with his family, mingling in the thriving Kansas City coffee culture, and traveling throughout the world.
The Roasterie
Andrew Miller, Cafe Imports, Minneapolis, MN
Andrew Miller is the president and founder of Café Imports, a boutique green coffee importing company based in Minneapolis MN. USA He has a degree from the University of Minnesota and twenty years of restaurant experience prior to launching a Specialty Coffee importing business in 1993.
Fourteen years later, he and the Café Imports team are sourcing and selling some of the world’s finest coffees and working with some of the nation’s best roasters to bring a revolutionary coffee experience to the people. They are working with Cup of Excellence coffees, building a state of the art coffee lab and conducting cutting edge green coffee storage experiments to continue the knowledge curve and expand the possibilities of great coffee.
Cafe Imports
Wendy de Jong, Tony's Coffees & Teas, Bellingham WA
Wendy De Jong is the Vice President and Coffee Buyer for Tony’s Coffees and Teas, located in Washington and California. Wendy began her coffee career as a barista in Seattle, and has enjoyed coffee retail management, espresso education and training, equipment repair, roasting and production management. Currently she spends most of her time sourcing great tasting coffees and developing mutually beneficial relationships with coffee producers. She is a frequent volunteer with the Specialty Coffee Association of America, is serving as Secretary/Treasurer for the Roasters Guild Executive Council, and is a licensed Q Grader.
Tony's Coffee & Teas
John Cossette, Royal Coffee Inc., Emeryvill CA
John is a Vice President, Trader, and Green Buyer for Royal Coffee Inc. in Emeryville CA. Fourteen of John's eighteen years in the coffee business have been spent with Royal. John also worked for five years as an Organic Inspector for OCIA and CCOF. John is married with one child and currently resides in Oakland CA.
Royal Coffee
Professor Flávio Meira Borém, Federal University of Lavras, Minas Gerais, Brazil
Flavio has a degree in Agronomy from the Federal University of Viçosa, a PhD in Agricultural Engineering and Plant Production from the Wageningen University - Netherlands (2006), and has done post-doctorate work at the Coffee Lab International (2008). He is the editor of a new book called Post-Harvest Coffee which covers the process and production of post-harvest coffee. Professor Borem is also and expert in the field of Post-Harvest and Quality Coffee with emphasis on metabolomics approach related to the change in quality during processing and drying. He is also professor of drying and storage of coffee in addition to UFLA speaker at various scientific technical events. He has also been a Cupping Judge of the SCAA.
Federal University of Lavras
Oscar Gonzales, Supply Manager, Sustainable Harvest, Lima, Peru
Oscar Gonzales began his career in coffee eleven years ago. He initially started working at national roasting companies, where he established strong relationships with key coffee companies and exporting cooperatives in Peru. Oscar then worked with coffee producing organizations for a private export company, where he gained experience in the area of production, logistics, and quality control.
Oscar has a great understanding of the demands of the specialty coffee industry in regards to quality and production practices. With Sustainable Harvest, Oscar works in supplier relations, helps link new coffee producers to the market, leads training seminars, and oversees cupping training to teach smallholder farmers the language of quality through taste. Recently, Oscar became a licensed Q Grader, a professional accreditation for coffee cuppers. He is the first Peruvian to earn this distinction.
Sustainable Harvest
Darrin Daniel, Allegro Coffee, Thornton, CO
Darrin Daniel is the green coffee buyer for the Colorado based, Allegro Coffee Company, a wholly owned subsidiary of Whole Foods Market. Beginning in 1985, Daniel’s has worked in specialty coffee as a trainer, roaster, barista, technician and coffee specialist. He has served as an international judge for Cup of Excellence in Brazil, El Salvador and Honduras, in addition to travelling to numerous coffee farms throughout Africa, Asia and Latin America since 2001. Daniel’s currently serves on the advisory board for Roast Magazine and is a member of the Roaster’s Guild, a branch of the SCAA dedicated to the craft of roasting. In 2008 he became a licensed Q grader by the Coffee Quality Institute and is also Star Cupper certified by the SCAA. In 1991 he received his BA from Naropa University in Literature and Writing with a minor in Anthropology and Religious Studies. Naropa University in Boulder Colorado comprises a four-year undergraduate college and graduate programs in the arts, education, environmental leadership, psychology and religious studies.
Allegro Coffee Company
David Hermann, Bean Machine (Roaster), The Roasterie, Kansas City MO
David has worked in the coffee industry since his college days at Saint Louis University. He enjoys the international flavors that specialy coffee brings to the Kansas City community. A member of the Roasters Guild, and an espresso aficionado, David never stops trying to learn more about our beautiful beans. In his free time he enjoys spending time with his family, mingling in the thriving Kansas City coffee culture, and traveling throughout the world.
The Roasterie
Andrew Miller, Cafe Imports, Minneapolis, MN
Andrew Miller is the president and founder of Café Imports, a boutique green coffee importing company based in Minneapolis MN. USA He has a degree from the University of Minnesota and twenty years of restaurant experience prior to launching a Specialty Coffee importing business in 1993.
Fourteen years later, he and the Café Imports team are sourcing and selling some of the world’s finest coffees and working with some of the nation’s best roasters to bring a revolutionary coffee experience to the people. They are working with Cup of Excellence coffees, building a state of the art coffee lab and conducting cutting edge green coffee storage experiments to continue the knowledge curve and expand the possibilities of great coffee.
Cafe Imports
Wendy de Jong, Tony's Coffees & Teas, Bellingham WA
Wendy De Jong is the Vice President and Coffee Buyer for Tony’s Coffees and Teas, located in Washington and California. Wendy began her coffee career as a barista in Seattle, and has enjoyed coffee retail management, espresso education and training, equipment repair, roasting and production management. Currently she spends most of her time sourcing great tasting coffees and developing mutually beneficial relationships with coffee producers. She is a frequent volunteer with the Specialty Coffee Association of America, is serving as Secretary/Treasurer for the Roasters Guild Executive Council, and is a licensed Q Grader.
Tony's Coffee & Teas
John Cossette, Royal Coffee Inc., Emeryvill CA
John is a Vice President, Trader, and Green Buyer for Royal Coffee Inc. in Emeryville CA. Fourteen of John's eighteen years in the coffee business have been spent with Royal. John also worked for five years as an Organic Inspector for OCIA and CCOF. John is married with one child and currently resides in Oakland CA.
Royal Coffee
Professor Flávio Meira Borém, Federal University of Lavras, Minas Gerais, Brazil
Flavio has a degree in Agronomy from the Federal University of Viçosa, a PhD in Agricultural Engineering and Plant Production from the Wageningen University - Netherlands (2006), and has done post-doctorate work at the Coffee Lab International (2008). He is the editor of a new book called Post-Harvest Coffee which covers the process and production of post-harvest coffee. Professor Borem is also and expert in the field of Post-Harvest and Quality Coffee with emphasis on metabolomics approach related to the change in quality during processing and drying. He is also professor of drying and storage of coffee in addition to UFLA speaker at various scientific technical events. He has also been a Cupping Judge of the SCAA.
Federal University of Lavras
Monday, October 20, 2008
More Calibrations, Rio, and those nifty cups
For those of you who've never been on a cupping panel I should probably dig a little deeper on calibrations. First, the calibration can also serve as a warm-up for the judges, giving them a chance make sure their own senses are dialed-in. As we well know, we all have different palates and different senses of smell. While experienced cuppers tend to be totally tuned into their noses & tongues, they're still individuals with varying life experiences and sense memories. One combination of volatilized compounds in a cup of joe might make me think of my grandma Ellen's canned peaches at the same time that they remind Darrin Daniel of fine a fine Peach Lambic (which he's now obligated to buy for all the judges after the competition.) A strong phenolic taint might make one person think of the time he lit a pencil eraser in grade school (ahem...) or it could call up the sense memory of a burnt out clutch. A key task of a calibration is to ensure that the judges are noticing similar things in the samples-like in #8 today which featured fecund phenols.
Last, but not least, a calibration session can include a discussion of aromas, flavors, and taints particular to the origin. With naturally processed coffees, human influence on the quality of the coffee only goes so far. With the other half of our competition, the processed coffees, a farmer can do much more in post-harvest processing to ensure quality. One particular taint that can plauge Brazilian coffees is the infamous Rio-taint. A lot of work has been done over the years on this fungal contaminant (present in old #8 above) and we're extrememly lucky to have one of Brazil's foremost authorities on this phenomenon on our panel. Professor Flavio Meira Borem of the Federal University of Lavras related some of the recent studies on Rio-taint and how cherry hang-time on the tree is one of the largest factors involved.
Professor Borem has also been actively involved in the Responsible Sourcing Partnership through leading technical trainings for Fair Trade producers. He's also edited a wonderful new book on the technical aspects of post-harvest coffee care. Covering everything from the physics of drying to how to properly warehouse your beans, the book is a tremendous aid to Brazil's small farmers and co-ops. For those attending SCAA next year in Atlanta, you'll be able to purchase the English translation of Professor Borem's book on (and currently available for coffee nerds who read Portuguese.)
A few more pictures of the day's action:
Those nifty cups. They come with little plastic lids to keep the grinds fresh. They might be uniquely Brazilian
John Cossette of Royal, Darrin Daniel of Allegro, Joao Batista Jardli of SAAG Brazil, Takahisa Toda of MC Coffee Brazil, and Wendy de Jong of Tony's.
There's also an awful lot of hot water in Brazil
Roasting sample batches on the Probatinho
Last, but not least, a calibration session can include a discussion of aromas, flavors, and taints particular to the origin. With naturally processed coffees, human influence on the quality of the coffee only goes so far. With the other half of our competition, the processed coffees, a farmer can do much more in post-harvest processing to ensure quality. One particular taint that can plauge Brazilian coffees is the infamous Rio-taint. A lot of work has been done over the years on this fungal contaminant (present in old #8 above) and we're extrememly lucky to have one of Brazil's foremost authorities on this phenomenon on our panel. Professor Flavio Meira Borem of the Federal University of Lavras related some of the recent studies on Rio-taint and how cherry hang-time on the tree is one of the largest factors involved.
Professor Borem has also been actively involved in the Responsible Sourcing Partnership through leading technical trainings for Fair Trade producers. He's also edited a wonderful new book on the technical aspects of post-harvest coffee care. Covering everything from the physics of drying to how to properly warehouse your beans, the book is a tremendous aid to Brazil's small farmers and co-ops. For those attending SCAA next year in Atlanta, you'll be able to purchase the English translation of Professor Borem's book on (and currently available for coffee nerds who read Portuguese.)
A few more pictures of the day's action:
Those nifty cups. They come with little plastic lids to keep the grinds fresh. They might be uniquely Brazilian
John Cossette of Royal, Darrin Daniel of Allegro, Joao Batista Jardli of SAAG Brazil, Takahisa Toda of MC Coffee Brazil, and Wendy de Jong of Tony's.
There's also an awful lot of hot water in Brazil
Roasting sample batches on the Probatinho
Calibrations
Today marks the start of the first ever Fair Trade Cupping Competition in Brazil. The judges are all well rested and ready to go after a proper night's rest. Our panel started out this morning from the Hotel Colinas in the heart of downtown Machado after a tasty Brazilian breakfast which included one of my favorites, Pao de Queijo with bacon. The judges, of course, we're only allowed a slice of white bread and some water so as to not upset their delicate palates (no I didn't see David Hermann eat chocolate cookies and jello for breakfast.)
About 15 minutes outside hilly Machado the Centro de Excellencia do Cafe, Sul de Minas sits on a small plateau overlooking lush farmland. It was built last year through federal and municipal funds in order to serve as an educational and technical training center.
Every cupping competition begins with a calibration in order to align the panel around standards and terms. Silvio Leite, a veteran cupper who's directed too many Cups of Excellence to count, led off the morning by going over the most recent edition of the SCAA cupping form and protocols. Then it was off to the laboratory across the courtyard to start cupping.
Reference samples
Andrew Miller of Cafe Imports and Darrin Daniel of Allegro Coffee discuss the merits of by-the-kilo roadside churrascurias.
Volunteers from the local agrarian school.
After the first run-through, the judges will break for lunch. The afternoon session will involve more cupping and a final alignment meeting to conclude the calibration.
Stay tuned for more!
-Demian Luper, TransFair USA
After the first run-through, the judges will break for lunch. The afternoon session will involve more cupping and a final alignment meeting to conclude the calibration.
Stay tuned for more!
-Demian Luper, TransFair USA
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
The International Panel of Judges
The first ever Fair Trade Cupping Competition in Brazil has brought together an international panel featuring roasters, importers, exporter, Q Graders, and cupping superstars from the USA and South America. In less than a week the international panel will begin the competition with a calibration meeting led by Silvio Leite to establish standards. On Tuesday 10/21 the panel will begin cupping the naturals category at the Center of Excellence in Machado. More updates to follow!
Judges:
Prof. Flávio Meira Borém, Universidade Federal de Lavras, BRAZIL
John Cosseette, Royal Coffee Inc,, Emeryville CA, USA
Darrin Daniel, Q Grader, Allegro Coffee Company, Thronton CO, USA
Wendy de Jong, Q Grader, Tony's Coffee & Teas, Bellingham, WA, USA
Oscar Gonzales, Sustainable Harvest, Lima, PERU
David Hermann, The Roasterie, Kansas City, MO, USA
Joao Batista Jarduli, SAAG, BRAZIL
Silvio Leite, AgriCafe, BRAZIL
Andrew Miller, Cafe Imports, Minneapolis MN, USA
Jack Robson Silva, Cafe Bom Dia, BRAZIL
Observers
Takashi Toda, Mitsubishi, BRAZIL
Fernando Monteiro, Mitsubishi, BRAZIL
Arnaldo Baskerville, Cafema, BRAZIL
Alexandre Gonzaga, Minas Estate Coffee, BRAZIL
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